Amstel River Reflections

AMSTERDAM
Rembrandt frequented the Amstel River outside of Amsterdam.  Wrapped in his black cape, he would sit on a stool drawings the river scene: sail-powered barges, wind-swept reeds along the dikes and stately wind mills.

Windblown bikers

On Saturday morning we rent bikes at the main train station in Amsterdam.  These are sturdy, one-speed black Dutch bicycles with racks on the back and coaster brakes.  Looking for a feel for the Dutch countryside we ride toward the Amstel River.  The river feeds the canals that fan out through the city.  We pass each successive canal as we ride south.  We cross the river and cruise among a small bouquet of modern skyscrapers then pass under a highway bridge, cars speeding toward and away from the congested streets of Amsterdam.  Our bike path now slides right up to the 20 meter wide river.  Moored along its bank are house boats.  This one is a converted commercial grain barge.  That one is new and modern with sleek glass windows, stainless steel furniture on the decks and beautiful wooden panel siding.

Modern houseboat

The houseboats grow less frequent.  We are on the dike that forms the river channel.  Below us to the left are bright green fields in a patchwork defined by narrow water channels.  At regular intervals farmhouses look down on us – solid stone buildings, barns, tractors.   A single skull glides by, the woman pulling in a steady pattern on her oars.  Now a man on bicycle rides towards us.  He holds an electric megaphone and calls instructions to an 8-man skull in the river.

Amstel Windmill at work

The gray sky threatens rain.  The wind  pushes strongly against us as we make our way up river.  A runner stops to consult with us as we look at our map.  We push on.  I stop again and take photos of a fully thatched wind mill.  It is turning slowing.  Several miles away in the distance is a modern wind mill -- three 50m long arms turning against the dark sky.

Wind-behind-us ride back into Amsterdam

We cross the river and begin the 12 kilometers back towards the city.  It’s past 2:00pm and we are all focused on the pub we saw on this side of the river.  We arrive.  It is cozy.  We have chicken curry soup, a Dutch Hamburger, a salad.  Back on our bikes we come to another windmill and stop.  At its base is a large bronze statue of Rembrandt kneeling and looking out across the Amstel River.

Amsterdam canals at sunset

With the wind behind us we speed back toward town.  The highway passes overhead.  The houseboats grow more frequent.  Soon we are passing over the canals and the houseboats are moored two and three deep with gang planks reaching across the near boats to the far ones.  We reach the dense downtown streets: trolleys, pedestrian-tourists, cars, bicycles all competing for space in the narrow streets.  A bike path and green light allow us our final left and right turn up to the Train Station.  We return our bikes, collect our luggage and board a train for the airport.

Peter